Roll or taper

Post by **Mossy** » Mon Nov 27, 2017 9:23 am

Just curious on what everyone prefers. Reason I ask is my 38/357 and 44 magnum 3 die carbide sets only have the taper option. So I've been ok will taper crimping for the 38/357 loads due to reading it's a sufficient crimp for those rounds. BUT I've been reading that the 44 magnum needs a roll crimp. If 44 magnum needs a roll crimp then why would the die sets only give you the option for a taper? Btw I'm referring to my rcbs sets.

Post by **Rigger28** » Mon Nov 27, 2017 12:28 pm

I have purchased a Lee FCD for all of my straight wall and lever action calibers. They are cheap and you get a much more consistent crimp. They are super easy to setup and use as well. Just my opinion though.

Abruzzi · Post by **Abruzzi** » Mon Nov 27, 2017 12:43 pm

My 38 and 44 RCBS sets came with roll crimp dies, and they work fine. I didn't even know they sold sets with taper crimp dies for revolver cartridges, but I see they do, at least for 38/357. Must be for plated bullets.
You sure your 44 set is taper crimp? I don't see that set listed on the RCBS site.

Post by **Mossy** » Mon Nov 27, 2017 1:39 pm

Abruzzi wrote:My 38 and 44 RCBS sets came with roll crimp dies, and they work fine. I didn't even know they sold sets with taper crimp dies for revolver cartridges, but I see they do, at least for 38/357. Must be for plated bullets.
You sure your 44 set is taper crimp? I don't see that set listed on the RCBS site.

I'm pretty sure the paperwork with the die set says anything in a gray box and made after 2010 produces a taper crimp. The 38/357's I've loaded definitely produced a taper crimp.

Post by **Mossy** » Sat Dec 02, 2017 4:42 pm

I guess the gray box thing isn't always the case. I loaded some up last night with the carbide set and got a good roll crimp. Thanks fellas

Post by **Mossy** » Sat Dec 23, 2017 9:48 am

Rigger28 wrote:I have purchased a Lee FCD for all of my straight wall and lever action calibers. They are cheap and you get a much more consistent crimp. They are super easy to setup and use as well. Just my opinion though.

Just wanted to say thanks for the advice on the FCD; very easy to use and my rounds look great.

Norskie · Post by **Norskie** » Wed Jul 18, 2018 11:24 am

Roll crimps are used with bullets that have a crimping groove. (Cannelure) also when there is a chance of back out with recoil. (Bullet backs out of the case) cartridges that headspace on the mouth of the case need a taper crimp. This ensures proper headspace of the cartridge.

Post by **Call Turner** » Wed Jul 18, 2018 1:25 pm

I believe RCBS dies will do both. High recoil loads are usually roll crimped into a groove. Double check your instructions.

Post by **edzz** » Thu Jul 19, 2018 8:38 am

Back in the day I learned that it was unlikely for me to experience a spuib if I used a heavy crimp when loading with 296, h110, 4227, 2400 and other slow burning powders. The worst offender for me was h110,or 296 in 357 with a light slug. Seems the bullet would start to launch before full powder ignition. A heavy roll crimp solved this. I accepted this as a fix and never looked back.

Gleng · Post by **Gleng** » Fri Jul 20, 2018 5:58 pm

I use a roll crimp for revolvers as they headspace on the case rim. For semi-autos I use a taper crimp as they headspace on the case mouth. I have had taper crimped ammo that the shot shell capsule crept forward and locked the cylinder up in a Ruger Blackhawk .44 MAG before.

ktmrocks · Post by **ktmrocks** » Sun Sep 09, 2018 8:39 pm

+1 for the Lee Factory Crimp Die.

Spokane Gun Trader

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